Washing Machine Parts — Genuine Spare Parts, Supplied & Installed Across Dammam, Al Khobar and Dhahran

From motors, pumps and control boards to filters, door seals and inlet valves — we supply Suitable parts for LG, Samsung, Bosch, Daewoo, Toshiba, Beko, Whirlpool and every major brand, and install them on both the part and the labour.

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Part identification hub

Which Washing Machine Part Do You Need?

Nine core parts, each with a real photo, its function in plain language, and a direct link to the full guide. Click the part you need — or scroll to the Symptom-to-Part table below if you're not sure yet.

Washing machine motor replacement part - genuine OEM drive motor

Motor

موتور

Drives the drum rotation during wash and spin cycles. A failing motor causes weak agitation, no spin, or complete silence during the cycle.

Motor guide
Washing machine drain filter replacement part - genuine OEM lint trap filter

Filter

فلتر

Traps lint, debris and foreign objects before they reach the pump. A clogged filter is the #1 cause of poor drainage and mid-cycle stops.

Filter guide
Washing machine drain hose replacement part - genuine OEM drain outlet hose

Drain Hose

خرطوم التصريف

Carries used water from the drum to the household drain. A cracked or disconnected hose causes water on the floor during drain and spin.

Drain hose guide
Washing machine capacitor replacement part - genuine OEM motor start capacitor

Capacitor

مكثف

Provides the starting torque the motor needs to begin spinning. A weak capacitor is a common cause of "humming but not spinning".

Capacitor guide
Washing machine timer replacement part - genuine OEM cycle control timer

Timer

مؤقت

Controls the duration and sequence of each cycle stage on older models. Modern machines use electronic boards instead.

Timer guide
Washing machine drain pump replacement part - genuine OEM water pump

Drain Pump

مضخة التصريف

Actively pumps water out of the drum during the drain stage. A failed drain pump causes standing water, draining errors, and mid-cycle stoppages.

Drain pump guide
Washing machine door seal gasket replacement part - genuine OEM rubber gasket

Door Seal

جلدة الباب

Watertight rubber gasket that seals the drum door on front-loaders. In coastal cities like Dammam, humidity accelerates mould damage.

Door seal guide
Washing machine water inlet valve solenoid replacement part - genuine OEM fill valve

Inlet Valve

صمام الماء

Opens and closes to control water entering the drum during fill. A stuck valve can cause continuous filling, overflow, or no water at all.

Inlet valve guide
Washing machine control board PCB replacement part - genuine OEM electronic control module

Control Board

لوحة التحكم

The electronic brain that manages the entire wash cycle. Must be correctly matched to your model number — never substitute a counterfeit board.

Control board guide

Not sure which part you need?

Send us a photo of your washer's model plate and the problem (or the error code on the display) on WhatsApp. We'll identify the exact part and confirm the price — free of charge.

Reverse router

Which Part Is Causing Your Problem?

Most people don't know which part has failed — they only know what the washer is doing wrong. This table works in reverse: find your symptom, and we'll point you to the likely part.

Symptom Most Likely Part(s) Confirm By
Washer won't drain, water sits in drum Pump, Drain Hose, Filter Check filter first; then listen for pump hum
Washer won't spin, drum doesn't rotate Motor,Capacitor, Timer Listen for motor hum without movement
Washer won't fill with water Inlet Valve, Control Board Check faucet and inlet filter mesh first
Washer overflows continuously Inlet Valve (stuck open), Control Board Shut off water; if it still fills, valve is stuck
Washer leaks from under the door Door Seal Inspect rubber gasket for tears or mould
Washer is completely dead, no lights Control Board, Timer Check outlet and breaker first
Washer makes grinding or roaring noise Motor (bearings), Pump (debris) Note when the noise occurs (wash vs. drain)
Washer stops mid-cycle with water in drum Pump,Filter, Control Board Check filter first; then error code
Washer leaves lint on clothes Filter (clogged) Remove and inspect filter
Washer fills slowly or not at all Inlet Valve, Filter (mesh) Clean mesh; check water pressure
Washer trips the breaker Motor,Capacitor, Control Board electrical hazard
Washer drum won't turn by hand Motor, Control Board Do not force the drum
Error code points to water supply Inlet Valve Check faucet, hose, mesh, then valve
Error code points to drainage Pump, Drain Hose, Filter Check filter, then hose, then pump
Error code points to motor or drive Motor,Capacitor, Control Board Note the code; consult part page
Water on floor during spin Door Seal, Drain Hose Inspect both

Still not sure? See our full Washing Machine Problems guide — or call 0544006384 and we'll identify the part for you.

Educational core

Understanding Your Washing Machine Parts

Each part below is broken down the same way: what it does, the signs it's failing, its lifespan, how Dammam, Al Khobar and Dhahran conditions affect it, replacement difficulty and typical SAR cost.

Motor (الموتور)

The motor is the heart of the washer. It drives the drum's rotation during both the wash agitation and the spin cycle. On modern machines it is either a traditional brushed motor or an inverter / direct-drive motor (LG Direct Drive, Bosch EcoSilence Drive, Samsung Digital Inverter).

Signs it's failing
  • Drum doesn't rotate at all — no agitation, no spin
  • Humming noise from the motor but no movement
  • Burning smell near the drum or motor housing
  • Washer trips the circuit breaker when it starts
  • Spin speed noticeably reduced compared to when new
Lifespan
  • Direct-drive / inverter: 10–15 years
  • Brushed motors: 5–8 years
  • Carbon brushes: 4–6 years (replaceable on some models)
Saudi-specific vulnerability
  • Voltage fluctuations: Without a stabiliser, motor windings degrade faster — a surge protector is strongly recommended
  • Heat + humidity: Accelerate bearing wear in Dammam
  • Direct-drive motors rarely fail — the control board usually fails first
Difficulty & cost (SAR)
  • Difficulty: Technician only — drum removal required on most models
Full motor guide
Filter (الفلتر)

The filter (also called the lint filter or drain filter) traps lint, coins, hair, and small foreign objects before they reach the drain pump. There are two types: the front-access drain filter (front-loaders) and the top-mounted lint filter (top-loaders). A clean filter is the simplest, cheapest way to prevent mid-cycle stops and drainage faults.

Signs it's failing
  • Water left standing in the drum after the cycle
  • Error codes related to drainage (LG OE, Samsung 5E, Bosch E18)
  • Lint visible on clothes after the wash
  • Washer stops mid-cycle, especially during drain
  • Slow draining — takes much longer than it used to
Lifespan
  • Cleanable indefinitely — replacement rarely needed
  • Replace only if the mesh is torn or the plastic housing is cracked
  • Clean every 1–3 months depending on use
Saudi-specific vulnerability
  • Hard water: Limescale sticks to the filter mesh faster here — clean monthly, not quarterly
  • Sand/dust: Common in Dammam homes with open windows; accelerates filter clogging
  • Most "the washer is dead" calls are actually a clogged filter — a free fix
Difficulty & cost (SAR)
  • Difficulty: Safe DIY — 5 minutes, no tools
Full filter guide
Drain Hose (خرطوم التصريف)

The drain hose carries used water from the drum to the household drain or standpipe. It connects the drain pump outlet to the household drain and is one of the most frequently replaced parts because it is exposed to heat, detergent residue, and physical movement during every cycle.

Signs it's failing
  • Water on the floor behind or underneath the washer
  • Visible cracks, kinks, or bulges in the hose
  • Drain hose slips out of the standpipe during drain
  • Water pools in the machine's base during the spin cycle
  • Musty smell from the drain hose
Lifespan
  • 5–8 years under normal use
  • Inspect every 3 months for cracks or kinks
  • Replace proactively every 5 years to prevent burst leaks
Saudi-specific vulnerability
  • Heat: Laundry rooms reach 40°C+ in summer; low-grade rubber cracks faster here
  • Hard water: Mineral deposits stiffen the hose over time, making it brittle
  • Rodents can chew through drain hoses in ground-floor utility rooms — inspect regularly
Difficulty & cost (SAR)
  • Difficulty: Safe DIY — 10 minutes, screwdriver and pliers
Full drain hose guide
Timer (المؤقت)

The timer controls the duration and sequence of each cycle stage on older (electromechanical) washing machines. It tells the washer when to fill, wash, drain, and spin. On modern machines, the timer has been replaced by the electronic control board — but many older Daewoo, Toshiba, and LG models in Saudi Arabia still use mechanical timers.

Signs it's failing
  • Cycle gets stuck at the same stage every time
  • Washer skips stages (no drain, no spin)
  • Timer knob doesn't advance or moves erratically
  • Washer starts a cycle without the timer being touched
  • Clicking or buzzing from the timer housing
Lifespan
  • 8–12 years on mechanical timers
  • Contacts wear out with use; a machine used daily may fail sooner
  • No longer used on machines manufactured after ~2015
Saudi-specific vulnerability
  • Voltage spikes: Weld timer contacts shut — a common failure on older machines
  • Age: Most timers in the Kingdom are on machines 10+ years old
  • Often more economical to repair the timer than to replace an otherwise-working machine
Difficulty & cost (SAR)
  • Difficulty: Moderate DIY — requires labelling wires carefully before removal
Full timer guide
Water Pump (مضخة الماء)

The drain pump actively pushes used water out of the drum and through the drain hose during the drain and spin stages. Without it, water sits in the drum and the cycle cannot progress. This is the single most commonly replaced part in Dammam, Al Khobar and Dhahran.

Signs it's failing
  • Water remains in the drum after the cycle ends
  • Washer stops mid-cycle with a drain error code (LG OE, Samsung 5E, Bosch E18)
  • Humming sound from the pump but no water draining
  • Grinding or rattling from beneath the washer during drain
  • Water leaking from the pump housing during drain
Lifespan
  • 5–8 years under normal use
  • 3–5 years in hard water areas without descaling
  • Descaling every 6 months can nearly double pump life
Saudi-specific vulnerability
  • Hard water (the #1 cause): Limescale accumulates on the pump impeller and inside the housing — this is the single most common cause of pump failure in Dammam and Khobar
  • Sand/dust: Entry through wash water accelerates impeller wear
  • Pumps fail here far more often from scale than from mechanical wear
Difficulty & cost (SAR)
  • Difficulty: Technician only — requires draining the drum, accessing the pump beneath or behind the drum, and re-sealing the housing
Full pump guide
Door Seal (جلدة الباب)

The door seal (also called the gasket or bellow) is the rubber ring that seals the drum door on front-loading washers. It is the #1 cause of front-door leaks — overloading, trapped laundry, and mould growth all contribute to its failure. Replacing a door seal is the single most common front-loader repair.

Signs it's failing
  • Water pooling in front of the washer during wash or spin
  • Visible tears, warping, or stretching in the rubber
  • Black mould in the gasket folds that won't clean out
  • Musty smell that returns after cleaning
  • Water visible inside the door glass after the cycle
Lifespan
  • 5–8 years with weekly cleaning
  • 3–5 years in humid coastal cities without cleaning
  • Wiping after every wash nearly doubles its life
Saudi-specific vulnerability
  • Coastal humidity: Dammam and Khobar have humidity levels that accelerate mould growth in the gasket folds
  • Heat: Rubber degrades faster at high ambient temperatures
  • Mould weakens the rubber and causes micro-tears — the seal fails far sooner here than in cooler climates
Difficulty & cost (SAR)
  • Difficulty: Moderate DIY — 30–45 minutes, requires patience to seat the gasket correctly. Technician recommended for a perfect seal.
Full door seal guide
Inlet Valve (صمام الماء)

The inlet valve (or water inlet solenoid valve) opens and closes to control water entering the drum during the fill cycle. It's an electromagnetic valve controlled by the control board. When it fails, the washer either won't fill at all, or fills continuously and overflows.

Signs it's failing
  • Washer won't fill with water at all
  • Washer fills continuously and overflows
  • Washer fills very slowly (longer fill time than before)
  • Water drips into the drum when the machine is off
  • Loud humming from the valve during fill
Lifespan
  • 6–10 years under normal use
  • Hard water scale is the leading cause of premature failure
  • Genuine solenoid valves dramatically outlast generic equivalents
Saudi-specific vulnerability
  • Hard water (dominant factor): Scale builds up on the valve seat and diaphragm, preventing a full seal — the #1 cause of inlet valve failure here
  • Water pressure: Dammam, Al Khobar and Dhahran supply varies; low pressure strains the valve
  • Clean the inlet mesh filter every 6 months to extend valve life
Difficulty & cost (SAR)
  • Difficulty: Safe DIY — 20 minutes, requires shutting off the water and disconnecting hoses. Genuine valve strongly recommended.
Full inlet valve guide
Control Board (لوحة التحكم)

The control board (also called the PCB, main board, or electronic control module) is the electronic brain that manages the entire wash cycle — fill, wash, drain, spin, and every sensor input in between. It must be matched exactly to your washer's model number. A wrong or counterfeit board can damage the motor, pump, and heating element.

Signs it's failing
  • Washer is completely dead — no lights, no response
  • Washer starts cycles on its own or behaves erratically
  • Display shows garbled text, random symbols, or wrong codes
  • Washer won't respond to button presses
  • Burning smell or visible burn marks on the board
Lifespan
  • 7–12 years under stable voltage
  • 3–6 years without voltage protection in Saudi Arabia
  • Must be matched exactly to model number
Saudi-specific vulnerability
  • Voltage fluctuations (dominant factor): Unstable supply is the #1 killer of control boards here — a whole-house stabiliser is essential
  • Humidity: Coastal humidity causes corrosion on the board's solder joints and traces
  • Counterfeit boards: Common in informal markets — they fail within days and can send incorrect voltage to the motor and pump, causing cascading failure
Difficulty & cost (SAR)
  • Difficulty: Technician only — requires diagnostics before replacement; boards are expensive and non-returnable once fitted
Full control board guide
Saudi-specific trust

Suitable parts vs. Counterfeit Parts — Why It Matters in Saudi Arabia

Across Dammam, Al Khobar and Dhahran — particularly in informal parts markets — counterfeit and low-quality aftermarket washing machine parts are widely sold. They look almost identical to Suitable parts, they cost 30–60% less, and they are frequently fitted by technicians who either don't know or don't ask. The result is predictable: counterfeit parts fail within weeks or months, and in the worst cases they damage the very components they were meant to protect.

Part Risk of Counterfeit Consequence
Control Board Very High Can fail within days; can send incorrect voltage to motor and pump, causing cascading failure
Inlet Valve Very High May not seal fully, causing slow overflow and water damage
Pump High Plastic impeller cracks under heat; limescale sticks faster to low-grade plastics
Capacitor High Can bulge, leak, or explode under load — genuine fire risk
Motor Medium Winding insulation fails early; can trip breakers
Door Seal Medium Rubber degrades rapidly; leaks within months
Timer Medium Contacts weld shut; cycle timing drifts
Filter Low Usually safe, but poor mesh quality reduces effectiveness
Drain Hose Low Usually safe, but low-grade rubber cracks with heat

How to Verify a Genuine Part — 5 Checks

Before you accept a part from any supplier — including us — run these five checks.

1

Packaging

Suitable parts arrive in branded packaging with a part number, barcode and country of origin. Counterfeit parts often arrive in plain plastic bags or unbranded boxes.

2

Part Number

Every genuine part has an OEM part number stamped or printed on it. we'll do this with you.

3

Weight & Finish

Suitable parts are noticeably heavier and better finished. Counterfeit control boards have thinner PCBs; counterfeit valves have lighter solenoids; counterfeit motors have thinner windings.

4

full stop.

5

Price

If a "genuine" part is priced 40% below the market rate, it is almost certainly counterfeit. Suitable parts have stable pricing across trusted suppliers.

Not sure?

Send us a photo of the part and its packaging on WhatsApp — and whether it's the right part for your model.

What we do differently — every job, no exceptions

  • We source only Suitable parts directly from trusted suppliers.
  • We show you the packaging and part number before installation.
  • We give you the old part back — you paid for it, it's yours.
  • We provide on both the part and the labour.
  • We tell you honestly if a repair is not worth the cost — and we will recommend replacement instead of installing an expensive part into a failing washer.
  • We never fit a part we wouldn't fit in our own homes.
Brand-specific failure patterns

Which Parts Fail Most Often by Brand?

Every brand has its weak points. Here's what we see most often in Dammam, Al Khobar and Dhahran — and the brand-specific factor that causes it.

Brand Most Common Part Failures Brand-Specific Note
LG Control board, inlet valve, pump Direct-drive motors rarely fail — the board and drain system are the weak points. LG error codes (OE, IE, FE) point directly to the part.
Samsung Pump, control board, door seal Balance sensors and boards are sensitive to voltage fluctuations — a surge protector is essential in Saudi Arabia.
Bosch Door seal, pump, control board Bosch parts are more expensive but last longer. Counterfeit Bosch boards are common in informal markets — insist on genuine.
Whirlpool / Maytag Motor coupler, timer, pump Direct-drive models have a motor coupler that fails more often than the motor itself — a cheap part that saves an expensive repair.
Daewoo Pump, inlet valve, door seal Extremely common in Saudi Arabia. Hard water destroys Daewoo pumps faster than any other brand — descale every 3 months.
Toshiba Filter, pump, timer Lint filters clog faster on Toshiba top-loaders; clean after every wash.
Beko Door seal, inlet valve, control board Beko seals degrade faster in coastal humidity — inspect annually in Dammam and Khobar.
Ariston Door seal, pump, capacitor Ariston capacitors fail more often than average — test before assuming the motor is dead.
Hitachi Pump, inlet valve, door seal Hitachi parts are less widely stocked; Suitable parts may need to be ordered — allow 2–3 days.
Midea Control board, pump, filter Midea boards are sensitive to voltage; use a stabiliser.
Panasonic Pump, door seal, timer Panasonic timers on older models fail more often than electronic boards.
Frigidaire Pump, filter, door seal Similar platform to Electrolux; parts are often interchangeable — confirm by part number.

Don't see your brand? Call 0544006384 — we likely service it.

Decision framework

Should You Replace the Part Yourself?

An honest breakdown — because pretending everything is easy helps no one.

Safe to replace yourself

With basic tools and a bit of care — these are genuinely DIY-friendly.

  • Filter — 5 minutes, no tools beyond a towel and a shallow pan
  • Drain hose — 10 minutes, screwdriver and pliers
  • Door seal — 30–45 minutes, moderate difficulty; requires patience to seat the gasket correctly
  • Inlet valve — 20 minutes, requires shutting off water and disconnecting hoses

Moderate — experienced only

Doable for confident DIYers, but with real risk if you get it wrong.

  • Capacitor — 20 minutes, but requires safe discharge — a charged capacitor can deliver a dangerous shock even when unplugged
  • Timer — 30–60 minutes, requires labelling wires carefully before removal
  • Pump — 45–90 minutes, requires draining the drum and resealing the housing

Technician only

Genuine electrical risk, expensive non-returnable parts, or both.

  • Motor — requires drum removal on most models, plus correct alignment and torque
  • Control board — requires diagnostics before replacement; boards are expensive and non-returnable once fitted

Why professional installation is often the better value

Even on a "DIY-friendly" part, the technician's value is in the diagnosis — not just the fitting.

  1. Correct diagnosis first. Up to 40% of parts replaced by DIYers are replaced unnecessarily — the actual fault was elsewhere (a clogged filter instead of a failed pump; a tripped breaker instead of a dead board). A technician diagnoses before replacing.
  2. and any damage caused by incorrect fitting is not covered.
  3. Safety. Capacitors, control boards, and motors carry genuine electrical risk — particularly in a wet laundry environment.
  4. Time. including sourcing the correct part.
Proximity signal

Our technicians carry the most commonly replaced parts on every van. For less common parts, we source from trusted suppliers in Dammam within 24–48 hours.

Book a part & installation

Need a Part Supplied and Installed Today?

Tell us your washer brand, model and the problem — or send us a photo on WhatsApp.

  • Home visits by appointment available
  • Suitable parts only
  • Old part handed back · packaging shown before fitting
Call us 24/7 0544006384

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AI & long-tail magnet

Washing Machine Parts FAQs

How do I know which washing machine part I need?

Start with the symptom, not the part. If the washer won't drain, the fault is almost always the pump, filter or drain hose. If it won't spin, it's usually the motor, capacitor or timer. If it won't fill, it's the inlet valve. Use our Symptom-to-Part table, or send us a photo of your washer's model plate and the error code on WhatsApp — we'll identify the part for you in minutes, free of charge.

Are genuine washing machine parts worth the extra cost?

Yes — especially for control boards, inlet valves, pumps and capacitors. Suitable parts last 2–3× longer than low-grade aftermarket equivalents, and they protect the components around them. A counterfeit control board can send incorrect voltage to the motor and pump, causing cascading failure that costs far more than the part itself.

How can I tell if a washing machine part is counterfeit?

Five checks: (1) Packaging — Suitable parts arrive in branded packaging with a part number, barcode and country of origin. (2) Part number — every genuine part has an OEM number stamped or printed on it. (3) Weight and finish — Suitable parts are noticeably heavier and better finished. (5) Price — if a "genuine" part is priced 40% below market rate, it is almost certainly counterfeit. See our full counterfeit guide.

How much does a washing machine water pump cost in Saudi Arabia?

Limescale-damaged pumps are the single most common part replacement in Dammam, Al Khobar and Dhahran because of hard water — descaling every 6 months significantly extends pump life.

Can I replace a washing machine part myself?

Some parts are safe to replace yourself: the filter (5 minutes), drain hose (10 minutes) and door seal (30–45 minutes). Others carry genuine risk: capacitors can deliver a dangerous shock even when unplugged; control boards are expensive and non-returnable once fitted; motors require drum removal on most models. Up to 40% of parts replaced by DIYers are replaced unnecessarily. A technician diagnoses before replacing.

Do you supply parts without installation?

Yes, we can supply Suitable parts without installation, but we strongly recommend installation for anything other than filters and drain hoses. any damage caused by incorrect fitting is not covered.

How long does it take to get a part that isn't in stock?

Our technicians carry the most commonly replaced parts for LG, Samsung, Daewoo, Toshiba, Beko and Bosch washers in their vans — which means most repairs are completed on the first visit. For less common parts, we source from trusted suppliers in Dammam and typically have them within 24–48 hours.

What is the most common part to fail on a washing machine?

In Dammam, Al Khobar and Dhahran, the drain pump is the single most common part failure — driven by limescale accumulation from hard water. After the pump, the most common failures are the door seal (front-loaders), inlet valve, control board and drain hose. In coastal cities like Dammam and Khobar, door seals also degrade faster because of humidity-driven mould growth.

Is it worth repairing a washing machine that needs a new motor or control board?

Use the 8-year, 50% rule. especially on a premium brand like Bosch, LG or Samsung. After year 8, replace when the quote passes half the price of a new machine. Structural failures combined with age usually mean replacement is the wiser decision.

Do you give the old part back after replacement?

Yes — you paid for the part, so it's yours. We hand back the old part after every replacement. This is standard practice on every job.

Do you service my area in Dammam, Al Khobar and Dhahran?

We supply and install washing machine parts across Dammam, Al Khobar and Dhahran.Home visits by appointment is available in most districts of Dammam, Khobar and Dhahran when you call before 4 PM. Calls answered 24/7. Home visits Saturday–Thursday 8 AM–11 PM, Friday 2 PM–11 PM (Dammam time). See all service areas →

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