From normal energy-saving behaviour to failed heating elements and sensors — identify the root cause, understand why your washer is running cold, and learn when to fix it yourself vs. call a professional. Home visits by appointment across Dammam, Al Khobar and Dhahran.
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Match your exact situation to the most likely cause and the right first step.
| Situation | Most Likely Cause | First Step | When to Call a Pro |
|---|---|---|---|
| Water is warm, not hot, but cycle completes | Normal energy-saving behaviour — washer heats for a set time then proceeds | Check your cycle selection and incoming water temperature | Only if water is completely cold on a Hot cycle |
| Water completely cold on Hot/Cotton 60°C | Heating element failure, NTC sensor fault, or control board issue | Reset the washer (unplug 5 min) | If error persists after reset |
| HE / HE1 / HE2 displayed (Samsung) | HE1: Overheating protection; HE2: Heater not working; HR: Communication error | Reset the washer | If error persists after reset |
| tE displayed (LG) | Thermistor (temperature sensor) or heating element malfunction | Unplug, plug back in, run Sanitary cycle | If tE persists — LG recommends service inspection |
| E19 / E20 / F20 displayed (Bosch) | Heating failure — water not heating within expected time | Reset the washer | If error persists — faulty heating element, thermistor, or board |
| E05 / E06 displayed (Beko) | Heating failure — machine cannot heat water to required temperature | Reset the washer | If error persists — faulty heating element or thermostat |
| E5 / E6 displayed (Samsung older models) | Heating system fault | Reset the washer | If error persists |
| No error code, water still cold | Heating element has failed silently (open circuit) | Run a 60°C Cotton cycle and touch the door after 40 min | If door is cold — heating element or NTC sensor failure |
| Washer trips the circuit breaker | Heating element short-circuit (water leaking into element) | — | Always — electrical fault, safety-critical |
| Clothes have odor/residue after wash | Heating element failed, causing incomplete wash at low temp | Run a maintenance wash at 90°C | If odor persists — heating element failure |
| Limescale visible on drum | Hard water scaling the heating element, reducing efficiency | Descale with vinegar or commercial descaler | If element is heavily scaled — replacement needed |
Ten root causes.
This is the most important cause to rule out first. Modern washing machines — especially LG and Samsung models — are designed to optimize energy efficiency. LG washers have a built-in timer: if heating takes too long (especially when incoming water is colder than 20–25°C), the machine will automatically proceed to the next phase of the wash cycle to save energy, even if the exact target temperature hasn't been fully reached. This is normal operation, not a product defect. If the incoming tap water is colder than average room temperature (around 20–25°C), the machine naturally requires more time to heat the water. To speed up the wash cycle, connect the hot water hose to a hot water tap. Check your cycle options — selecting Normal 40°C or Normal 60°C can help optimize the water temperature.
The heating element is the component that actually heats the water in the drum. Over time, the element can fail — either the resistive coil burns out (open circuit) or it short-circuits (trips the breaker). Limescale buildup from hard water is a major contributor to heating element failure: limescale acts as an insulator, forcing the element to work harder until it overheats and fails. A failed heating element typically triggers an error code (HE/HE2 on Samsung, tE on LG, E19 on Bosch, E05 on Beko). Signs include: the washer completes the cycle but clothes are cold on a hot wash, the washer trips the circuit breaker, and error codes appear on the display.
The NTC thermistor is a small sensor that monitors water temperature and sends resistance readings to the control board. If the thermistor fails (open circuit, short circuit, or drift), the board cannot accurately determine the water temperature. LG specifically notes that a tE error will be displayed if the heater element or the temperature sensor malfunctions. The board reads an abnormal resistance from the thermistor, meaning the sensor has failed open or shorted, or the water temperature is outside the expected range.
Older washing machines use a mechanical thermostat (rather than an NTC sensor) to regulate water temperature. A faulty thermostat can cause the machine to not heat water at all, or to overheat. Signs of a damaged thermostat include inconsistent water temperatures, the machine not heating water at all, or the appliance displaying error codes related to temperature. Beko E06 and E60 errors specifically indicate a heating failure where the machine cannot heat the water to the required temperature — usually caused by a faulty heating element or a malfunctioning temperature sensor (thermostat).
In rare cases, the control board fails to send the signal to the heating element or misreads the NTC sensor. Bosch E19 specifically notes that a heating failure may be caused by "a faulty heating element, a broken thermistor, or a control board fault." A control board fault is uncommon but possible. This is the least common cause of heating failure. If the heating element and thermistor test good but the washer still won't heat, the control board may be at fault.
Some washing machines have a thermal fuse that protects the heating element from overheating. If the heating element overheats (often due to limescale buildup or a stuck thermostat), the thermal fuse blows — permanently cutting power to the element. A blown thermal fuse is a safety feature, but it means the heating element will not receive power. Bosch heating elements include an integrated thermal fuse that cannot be reset — if it blows, the entire element must be replaced.
Saudi Arabia's water supply is notoriously hard — high in calcium and magnesium. This causes limescale deposits to build up on the heating element. Limescale acts as an insulating layer, forcing the element to work harder and longer to heat the water. Over time, the element can overheat and fail, or the thermal fuse can blow. Limescale buildup also reduces heating efficiency, meaning the washer takes longer to heat water and may trigger energy-saving timers before reaching the set temperature. Regular descaling is essential in Saudi Arabia.
Sometimes the washer isn't heating because the user selected a cold or low-temperature cycle. Modern appliances wash at lower temperatures, and if the machine has replaced an older model, it may not heat to as high a temperature as the previous one. Also, the last rinse is usually cold, so clothes will appear cold when removed from the washing machine at the end of the program. This is normal.
An overloaded washer may not heat water effectively because the heating element is covered by a large volume of water and fabric, slowing the heating process. Zanussi specifically notes to "make sure that the appliance is not overloaded" when troubleshooting heating issues. Overloading also prevents water from circulating properly around the heating element.
A clogged drain filter can prevent the washer from draining properly, which may indirectly affect heating. If the washer cannot drain, it cannot refill with fresh water for the next cycle phase, and heating may be interrupted. Zanussi notes to "make sure that the drain filter is clean and unclogged" when troubleshooting heating issues.
Eight safe DIY steps. Work through them in order — most heating complaints are resolved by step 1 or step 5.
Run a Cotton 60°C cycle with a medium load. If the door is warm (not hot, but noticeably warm), the heating element is working. Modern washers may not reach the exact set temperature — they heat for a set time and then proceed to save energy. This is normal.
Verify you have selected a cycle that includes heating — Cotton 60°C, Normal 40°C, or Sanitize. Check that the temperature setting is not set to Cold. On older models, check the temperature dial.
Unplug the washer for 5 minutes. Plug it back in. Run a Sanitary or Cotton 60°C cycle. A simple reset can clear a temporary control board glitch. LG specifically recommends this step for tE errors.
Check that the hot water inlet hose is connected to the hot water tap and the valve is fully open. If your home has a hot water supply, connecting the hose to the hot tap can speed up heating and reduce reliance on the heating element. Samsung notes that the water heater should be set to deliver a minimum 120°F (49°C) hot water at the tap.
Pour 2 cups of white vinegar into the detergent compartment. Run a hot cycle (60°C or 90°C) with an empty drum. For heavy limescale, use a commercial descaler or repeat the vinegar cycle. This removes limescale buildup from the heating element and improves heating efficiency. In Saudi Arabia's hard water, descale monthly.
A clogged drain filter can indirectly affect heating. Clean the drain pump filter every 1–3 months. See our Not Draining page for detailed steps.
Note any error code displayed. Common heating error codes include HE/HE1/HE2 (Samsung), tE (LG), E19/E20 (Bosch), E05/E06 (Beko). See the brand-specific section below for what each code means.
Do not overload the washer. For front-loaders, fill to 60% capacity. For top-loaders, fill to 3/4 capacity. Overloading prevents proper water circulation around the heating element.
Some heating failures signal a failed component. Here's when to stop trying and call a technician.
If any of these are true, a professional technician will save you time, money, and risk:
Ten habits that keep your heating element working — most take under a minute.
| Frequency | Task |
|---|---|
| Monthly | Descale with white vinegar or commercial descaler (essential in hard water areas) |
| Every 1–3 months | Clean the drain pump filter |
| Every 3 months | Run a maintenance wash at 90°C with no laundry to clear residue |
| Every 6 months | Check hot water inlet hose connection and tap |
| Always | Use the correct cycle and temperature for the load |
| Always | Do not overload the drum |
| Always | Use HE detergent only; reduce detergent amount |
| Always | Leave the door ajar after each wash |
| Every 5 years | Replace inlet hoses to prevent degradation |
| Annually | Inspect heating element for limescale if accessible |
Each brand has its own heating error codes and recommended fixes. Here's what to know for the major brands we service.
LG tE = Thermistor/Heater Error — displayed if the heater element or the temperature sensor malfunctions. Turn off the unit, unplug the power cord, plug it back in, and operate the washer. If the error persists, an inspection by a service manager is necessary. LG washers have a built-in energy-saving timer — they may proceed to the next phase even if the target temperature hasn't been reached.
LG repair guideSamsung HE1 = Overheating detected (water temperature exceeded safe levels). HE2 = Water is not heating as expected. HR = Communication error between the control board and temperature sensor (thermistor). HE/HE1/HE2 errors occur when the temperature is set to 40°C or above. Samsung notes that insufficient incoming water temperature, unstable power supply, or a faulty heater (TEN) can cause these errors. HC = Drum overheating error (water temperature 93°C or higher). HC1 = Washing heater is short-circuited or has a wire disconnected.
Samsung repair guideBosch E19 = Heating failure — water is not heating up within the expected time. Usually caused by a faulty heating element, a broken thermistor (temperature sensor), or a control board fault. E9 = Heating circuit fault — usually caused by a failed heating element, an NTC sensor problem, wiring corrosion, or communication issues between the control modules. F2 = Heating fault — water is not reaching the required temperature within a set time. E20/F20 = Incorrect water heating — reboot the washer and contact service if the problem persists.
Bosch repair guideBeko E06 = Heating failure — machine cannot heat water to the required temperature. Usually caused by a faulty heating element or a malfunctioning temperature sensor (thermostat). E60 = Heating failure — similar to E06. E01 = NTC error — issue with thermistor wiring. Check thermistor (should read 4700 ohms at 25°C).
Beko repair guideToshiba washers with heating issues often have clogged inlet screens preventing water from reaching the heating element. The heating element may also fail due to limescale buildup. Check the water supply and descale regularly. E10 = water supply, E21 = drain.
Toshiba repair guideDaewoo washers in Saudi Arabia are common; hard water accelerates heating element failure. Descale monthly to prevent limescale buildup on the element. 4E = water supply, LE = leak.
Daewoo repair guideHeating issues may relate to inlet valve failure preventing water from reaching the element. Ariston washers with heating problems often have failed heating elements or NTC sensors. F11 = drain pump, F17 = door lock.
Ariston repair guideWhirlpool F20 or FH indicates a water supply problem — both hot and cold water must be connected and turned on. Whirlpool washers with heating issues often have failed heating elements or thermistors. Check water supply first.
Whirlpool repair guideHitachi washers with heating issues often have water supply problems preventing the drum from filling. The heating element may also fail due to limescale. C01 = no water supply, C02 = no drain.
Hitachi repair guideMidea washers with heating issues often have water supply problems or failed heating elements. Check the water supply and descale regularly. E1 = water fill timeout, E2 = drain timeout.
Midea repair guidePanasonic washers with heating issues often have water supply problems preventing proper filling. Check the water inlet and filter. U11 = drain error, U14 = water inlet.
Panasonic repair guideFrigidaire washers with heating issues often have clogged inlet screens or failed heating elements. Clean the screens and descale regularly. E10/E11 = water fill problem, E24 = drain pump.
Frigidaire repair guideMaytag washers with heating issues often have water supply problems preventing proper filling. Check both hot and cold water taps are fully open. F8 E1 = long fill, F20 = water supply problem.
Maytag repair guideCall us for the earliest visit slot, or send your details and we'll call you back as soon as possible — calls answered 24/7.
The most common causes are a failed heating element (open circuit or short circuit), a faulty NTC thermistor (temperature sensor), a blown thermal fuse, limescale buildup on the heating element from hard water, or a control board fault. Before diagnosing a fault, rule out normal energy-saving behaviour — many modern washers, especially LG and Samsung, heat for a set time and then proceed to save energy even if the target temperature hasn't been reached.
Yes. Many modern washing machines — especially LG and Samsung models — are designed to optimize energy efficiency. If heating takes too long, especially when incoming water is colder than 20–25°C, the machine will automatically proceed to the next phase of the wash cycle to save energy, even if the exact target temperature hasn't been fully reached. This is normal operation, not a defect. To get warmer water, connect the hot water inlet hose to a hot water tap and select a cycle with a higher temperature setting.
Samsung HE1 indicates an overheating error — the water temperature exceeded safe levels. HE2 indicates the water is not heating as expected. These errors occur when the temperature is set to 40°C or above. Samsung notes that insufficient incoming water temperature, unstable power supply, or a faulty heater (TEN) can cause these errors. Reset the washer first; if the error persists, the heating element or thermistor has likely failed. Samsung error guide →
LG tE indicates a thermistor or heater error. LG specifically notes that a tE error will be displayed if the heater element or the temperature sensor malfunctions. When a tE error occurs: turn off the unit, unplug the power cord, plug it back in, and operate the washer. If the error persists, an inspection by a service manager is necessary — the heating element or NTC thermistor has likely failed. LG error guide →
Bosch E19 indicates a heating failure — water is not heating up within the expected time. It is usually caused by a faulty heating element, a broken thermistor (temperature sensor), or a control board fault. E20 and F20 indicate incorrect water heating — reboot the washer and contact service if the problem persists. E9 is a heating circuit fault, usually from a failed heating element or NTC sensor problem.
To test a heating element: unplug the washer and access the element (usually from the rear panel or under the drum). Disconnect the wires and use a multimeter set to resistance (ohms). A good element typically reads between 10 and 30 ohms. An open circuit (infinite resistance) means the element has failed and must be replaced. Also test for continuity to earth — any reading indicates a short circuit and the element must be replaced. This is a professional repair for most owners.
Some steps are DIY-friendly: verifying normal energy-saving behaviour, checking cycle selection, resetting the washer, checking the hot water supply, descaling with vinegar, and cleaning the drain filter. However, replacing the heating element, NTC thermistor, thermal fuse, thermostat, or control board requires disassembling the washer, working with electrical components and water connections, and using a multimeter — these are professional repairs.
If the washer trips the circuit breaker during a hot wash, the heating element has likely short-circuited — water has leaked into the element or the resistive coil has failed and is contacting the metal sheath. This is an electrical fault and a safety hazard. and call a professional technician. Do not attempt to reset the breaker and continue the cycle.
We service Dammam, Al Khobar and Dhahran. Home visits by appointment is available in most districts of Dammam, Khobar and Dhahran. See all service areas →